Tools Needed:
(For V-Star 1100)

4mm Allen
8mm socket or wrench
Philips Screwdriver
Dremel tool
Cutoff wheels
A narrow/thin straight slotted screwdriver
A lint free cloth
Patience

1 Remove the 3 screws holding the dashboard in place using the 4mm Allen socket

2 Disconnect the connector between the dashboard and the speedometer.

3 Remove the 3 nuts holding the speedometer in place using a 8mm socket.

4 Remove the 3 Phillips screws holding the mounting bracket in place. 
Also remove the Phillips screw holding the cable guide in place. 

5 Disconnect the 6 wires by removing the Phillips screws.  I would recommend putting the screws back in place after removing the wires.  This will prevent you from misplacing the screws, and it will keep the internal parts of the speedometer in place after removing the needle later in the process.

6 Another option to the above steps would be to remove the gas tank before removing the speedometer.  If you will have to disconnect the wires from the wiring harness in order to remove the gas tank, this will allow you to leave the wires attached to the back of the speedometer.  If you use this method you will have to be careful not to cut any of the wires when using the Dremel tool.  Use whatever method makes you the most comfortable.
7 This lip of the chrome bezel is what you will be cutting to gain access to the inside of the speedometer.  This is obviously the before picture.

8 Now it’s time to make the cuts in the lip of the bezel that will allow you to
bend back the crimp and remove the bezel form the speedometer housing.

This is the after picture. I put blue painters tape around the bezel to help me keep an eye on how far I was cutting into the plastic. After getting the speedometer apart, I realized this probably wasn’t necessary. You have more room to cut into than you realize. The plastic is pretty thick and you won’t have to cut down very far on the bezel. Not too much of the bezel is visible with the dashboard in place anyway. To minimize how much I cut into the plastic of the speedometer, and how far down the bezel you had to cut into to but the full slot across the lip, I used a scrap piece of metal to grind down the cutting wheel. You go through more wheels that way, but they are cheap compared to the price of a new speedometer!!

9 Using a thin and narrow straight slot screwdriver carefully wedge it in one of the slits you cut with the cutoff wheel. Carefully rotate it outwards to push the first tab of metal up and away from the speedometer. Continue working around the speedometer until you have all the tabs pushed up and away from the plastic.

10 You will want to be very careful with this step, as the metal cuts will be very sharp. I used a towel to push on the metal ring. Whatever you use, you want to push the metal ring away from the speedometer housing, pushing a little at a time around the speedometer until the metal ring comes off.

11 This is what the bezel looks like once it is removed from the speedometer.

12 To try and help keep dirt out of the speedometer once you reassemble, I placed the clear plastic cover to the speedometer inside of a folded lint-free cloth.

13 Time for the hardest part of the entire operation, removing the speedometer needle. I don’t know of an easy way to do this. This is going to take time and patience. Don’t bend it!! First you will gently pry the needle away from the face of the speedometer, (its actually rather stiff at first). Once the needle breaks loose, carefully lift the end of the needle over the top of the “0” (zero) stop pin (the needle is still attached to the case at this point at its pivot point). When the needle has been lifted over the stop pin, it will be pointing straight down on the speedometer, finish removing the needle from the case by sliding it the rest of the way off of the pivot point. ** I have heard that a computer chip puller works well for this step, but I didn’t try one.

14 Remove the 2 screws holding the faceplate on

15 Lay your new faceplate over the old one, making sure to push the hole over the “0” stop pin first, then align the screw holes and put the screws pack into place.

16 Put the needle back on the speedometer loosely. It will be pointing straight down again. Lift the needle back over the stop pin so it is now pointing at 0 (zero) again.
Turn on the key and make several checks to see if things are calibrated, if the needle makes a jerking motion, it is not calibrated properly. You may have to do this 3-4 times to make sure that the needle sweeps smoothly.
Read the Road Star instructions here for more information on calibrating the needle.
Press the needle all the way back on the pivot point if you feel you have it calibrated correctly. Calibrating is VERY important, you don't want to disassemble it after it's been sealed up again.

17 Run the needle through the range of speed to make sure that if moves freely. If you push the needle down too far it could interfere with the movement of the needle and cause it to stop at a certain speed.

18 Double, no, triple check for any dust on the new face plate, DO NOT clean the glass on the inside before putting it back together. Dust materializes out of nowhere, static can bring it on quick, so be very careful after you remove the speedometer bezel, don't cover it with a towel that may have lint on it. Turn it face down on a sturdy table, and do not touch the inside of the glass for any reasons. (If dust is present, do not blow it off using your mouth, or an air compressor, they both will 'spit' water on it, that can ruin the factory anti-fogging agent. Use "DUST-OFF!" in a can)
Place the speedometer glass side down onto a thick soft surface (I used a folded lint free towel). Now push on the plastic housing and bend each of the tabs back into their original position on the housing. Take your time. Once you've made one complete revolution around the case, double check each tab to insure they've all been pressed back into their original shape. (Realize they are not going to be perfect as they've been pried off, but press them back as well as you can and they will hold the two pieces together again.)

19 I put a bead of silicone seal over the tabs that were cut into the bezel just to ensure that no moisture entered the speedometer, although it might be slight overkill.

20 Simply redo what you undid in steps 5, 4, 3, 2, then and 1 to finish up.